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Construction, page 1

The whole idea is that the transmission-line is tapered. The top of the internal baffle divides the cabinet into thirds, with two thirds of the space on the woofer side and one third on the port side (that sounds funny, doesn't it?) That makes the top spacer 2" wide. At the bottom of the cabinet it gets a bit trickier as the baffle doesn't reach all the way down. Using the lower spacer block listed in the parts page, you can cut the baffle to the same length as the sides and use the spacer block to locate it. After drawing the lines and the witness marks, cross-cut the baffle to its finished length.

The first step is to rip the front, back and side panels and the internal baffle to size. All are 8" wide and 42" long. The internal baffle is then cut to a 36" length.

Here we see the side panel laying flat on the bench with the back and internal baffle standing on edge. The top of the speaker cabinet is closest. Note the spacer block between the back and internal baffle.

Also note that the quick clamp is holding the back square to the side. With the spacer blocks in place at both ends of the baffle, draw a line along the junction of the baffle and the side along with the witness marks for the biscuit joints.


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